The Hardest problems in Sardinia

Now, many people ask us “what are the hardest climbing problems in Sardinia?” to which we tended to reply very evasively, such as in ‘it depends’

I know, it is annoying, you want a direct answer. One name, that’s it, give me that name!

…but in effect it does depend! There’s first of all the enormous gap between bouldering and rope climbing, and then, are we talking of Trad climbing, sport routes or multi-pitches? It’s so crazy that climbing has already been partitioned into different sub-categories! So to reply to all, lets make a few lists (hoping it wont be a struggle to keep update!)

If you want one and one name only, that’s Marina Superstar. It is a 30 meters long sport problem located at the north-end of the Grotta di San Giovanni, Domusnovas, on the climbing sector known as Bronx. It was bolted by Matteo Marini in 2007 and graded an incredible 9a+ / 9b. Marina Superstar is the continuation of two shorter problems: Nel Prossimo Futuro (12m, 8b+) and Marina. (20m, 8c+) …and guess who sent it?

Surely you have already recognized him from the images: a very young Adam Ondra indeed. The team of climbers from Cagliari wrote to encourage him visiting Sardinia to climb some of the hardest routes. He accepted the challenge and in October 2008, surrounded by Marini and a large group of Sardinian climbers he sent it with his classical nonchalance, moving eventually to send a series of 8C+ in Domusnovas and Cala Gonone. Witness doubted he was a human ­čÖé

This is THE LIST OF THE HARDEST CLIMBS IN SARDINIA!

The Hardest Sport Routes in Sardinia
ProblemGradeSectorFirst AscentYear
Marina Superstar9a+/9bBronx (Domusnovas)Adam Ondra2008
Campo con Corvi9aBronx (Domusnovas)Adam Ondra2008
Kubomaladia8c+Millenniom (Cala Gonone)Arthur Kubista2007
Death Row8c+Millennium (Cala Gonone)Adam Ondra2009
La Voce8c+Ruota del Tempo (Domusnovas)Adam Ondra2009
Una piu del Diavolo8cQuirraArthur Kubista2001
La Signora con la Falce8cUrania (Isili)Steve Mc Clure2004
Oltretomba8cBronx (Domusnovas)Adam Ondra2008
Sapientino8b+/8cFuili (Cala Gonone)Rolando Larcher2005
Illy8b+/8cSu Telargiu ‘e Oro (Baunei)Arthur Kubista2009
Raga8b+Urania (Isili)Arthur Kubista1998
Fantasia e Verità8b+Urania (Isili)Arthur Kubista1998
Anime Salve8b+Fuili (Cala Gonone)Giuseppe Garippa2001
Mammuthone8b+Millennium (Cala Gonone)Arthur Kubista2003
Eja8b+Cala LunaLoic Fossard2004
The hardest Bolted Multi-pitches in Sardinia
NameHeightGradesLocationFirst AscentYear
Hotel Supramonte400m7b+ 7c+ 8b 8a+ 8b 7c 7a+ 7b+ 7b 7b 6bCanyon GorroppuPietro dal Pra2000
Viaje de los Locos340m8b 7c+ 8b+ 8a+ 7b+ 8a 7b+Canyon GorroppuDaniel Andrada & Daniel Dulac2002
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco270m7a+ 8b 6c 8a+ 7c+ 7c 7aPunta GiradiliLarcher Oviglia and Vigiani2006
Onda Azzurra240m6b 5c 8a+ 7a+ 8a 7b 7aMonte DoneittuAlexander Huber & M. Althammer2016
Mare Grigio260m6b 5c 7a 7b+ 7b+ 8a 8a 7a 6aMonte DoneittuAlexander Huber & M. Althammer2016
Aria350m7c 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c+ 8a+ 8a+ 6c+ 7b+ 7aPunta PlumareDal Pra & Nadali2007
Oiscura230m7a+ 6a+ 8b 8b 6b 7b+ 7bPunta Giradili
Amico Fragile6b 6c 7c+/8a 7c+ 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+Monte DoneittuVago & Pedeferri2006
Intelligenza Emotiva260m6c+ 7b 6b 6a 7b+ 7a+ 8a 6b+Punta GiradiliLarcher1998

In regards to the hardest boulder in Sardinia… we should wait to gather a bit more information. The Hardest boulder seems to be located in Luogosanto: Patagarroso, an 8b freed by Gabriele Moroni in 2015. View this article with a video of the Achievement!

  • gabriele-moroni
  • Alexander Huber - Il Capitano - Sardegna -03
  • Adam Ondra on Marina Superstar - The Hardest climb in Sardinia
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