The Hardest problems in Sardinia
Now, many people ask us “what are the hardest climbing problems in Sardinia?” to which we tended to reply very evasively, such as in ‘it depends’
I know, it is annoying, you want a direct answer. One name, that’s it, give me that name!
…but in effect it does depend! There’s first of all the enormous gap between bouldering and rope climbing, and then, are we talking of Trad climbing, sport routes or multi-pitches? It’s so crazy that climbing has already been partitioned into different sub-categories! So to reply to all, lets make a few lists (hoping it wont be a struggle to keep update!)
If you want one and one name only, that’s Marina Superstar. It is a 30 meters long sport problem located at the north-end of the Grotta di San Giovanni, Domusnovas, on the climbing sector known as Bronx. It was bolted by Matteo Marini in 2007 and graded an incredible 9a+ / 9b. Marina Superstar is the continuation of two shorter problems: Nel Prossimo Futuro (12m, 8b+) and Marina. (20m, 8c+) …and guess who sent it?
Surely you have already recognized him from the images: a very young Adam Ondra indeed. The team of climbers from Cagliari wrote to encourage him visiting Sardinia to climb some of the hardest routes. He accepted the challenge and in October 2008, surrounded by Marini and a large group of Sardinian climbers he sent it with his classical nonchalance, moving eventually to send a series of 8C+ in Domusnovas and Cala Gonone. Witness doubted he was a human 🙂
This is THE LIST OF THE HARDEST CLIMBS IN SARDINIA!
| Problem | Grade | Sector | First Ascent | Year |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marina Superstar | 9a+/9b | Bronx (Domusnovas) | Adam Ondra | 2008 |
| Campo con Corvi | 9a | Bronx (Domusnovas) | Adam Ondra | 2008 |
| Kubomaladia | 8c+ | Millenniom (Cala Gonone) | Arthur Kubista | 2007 |
| Death Row | 8c+ | Millennium (Cala Gonone) | Adam Ondra | 2009 |
| La Voce | 8c+ | Ruota del Tempo (Domusnovas) | Adam Ondra | 2009 |
| Una piu del Diavolo | 8c | Quirra | Arthur Kubista | 2001 |
| La Signora con la Falce | 8c | Urania (Isili) | Steve Mc Clure | 2004 |
| Oltretomba | 8c | Bronx (Domusnovas) | Adam Ondra | 2008 |
| Sapientino | 8b+/8c | Fuili (Cala Gonone) | Rolando Larcher | 2005 |
| Illy | 8b+/8c | Su Telargiu ‘e Oro (Baunei) | Arthur Kubista | 2009 |
| Raga | 8b+ | Urania (Isili) | Arthur Kubista | 1998 |
| Fantasia e Verità | 8b+ | Urania (Isili) | Arthur Kubista | 1998 |
| Anime Salve | 8b+ | Fuili (Cala Gonone) | Giuseppe Garippa | 2001 |
| Mammuthone | 8b+ | Millennium (Cala Gonone) | Arthur Kubista | 2003 |
| Eja | 8b+ | Cala Luna | Loic Fossard | 2004 |
| Name | Height | Grades | Location | First Ascent | Year |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hotel Supramonte | 400m | 7b+ 7c+ 8b 8a+ 8b 7c 7a+ 7b+ 7b 7b 6b | Canyon Gorroppu | Pietro dal Pra | 2000 |
| Viaje de los Locos | 340m | 8b 7c+ 8b+ 8a+ 7b+ 8a 7b+ | Canyon Gorroppu | Daniel Andrada & Daniel Dulac | 2002 |
| Mezzogiorno di Fuoco | 270m | 7a+ 8b 6c 8a+ 7c+ 7c 7a | Punta Giradili | Larcher Oviglia and Vigiani | 2006 |
| Onda Azzurra | 240m | 6b 5c 8a+ 7a+ 8a 7b 7a | Monte Doneittu | Alexander Huber & M. Althammer | 2016 |
| Mare Grigio | 260m | 6b 5c 7a 7b+ 7b+ 8a 8a 7a 6a | Monte Doneittu | Alexander Huber & M. Althammer | 2016 |
| Aria | 350m | 7c 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c+ 8a+ 8a+ 6c+ 7b+ 7a | Punta Plumare | Dal Pra & Nadali | 2007 |
| Oiscura | 230m | 7a+ 6a+ 8b 8b 6b 7b+ 7b | Punta Giradili | ||
| Amico Fragile | 6b 6c 7c+/8a 7c+ 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+ | Monte Doneittu | Vago & Pedeferri | 2006 | |
| Intelligenza Emotiva | 260m | 6c+ 7b 6b 6a 7b+ 7a+ 8a 6b+ | Punta Giradili | Larcher | 1998 |
In regards to the hardest boulder in Sardinia… we should wait to gather a bit more information. The Hardest boulder seems to be located in Luogosanto: Patagarroso, an 8b freed by Gabriele Moroni in 2015. View this article with a video of the Achievement!
Hola, we are two brothers from Spain who are on holiday in Cala Gonone. We would like to climb on Sardinia, some routes between 7c and 8b. Can you recommend anything?
Gracias
If you’re in Cala Gonone you should definitely try Millennium, Raoni or Thailandia.
These are all in the shade in the afternoon 😉