{"id":10339,"date":"2020-06-11T17:22:41","date_gmt":"2020-06-11T15:22:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/localhost\/climbing-sardinia-new\/?page_id=10339"},"modified":"2021-01-04T21:06:47","modified_gmt":"2021-01-04T20:06:47","slug":"belay-devices","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/climbing-equipment\/belay-devices\/","title":{"rendered":"Belay devices"},"content":{"rendered":"

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WHAT IS A BELAY DEVICE?<\/h1>\n

\"CampA Belay Device is any device used to stop a rope. Some belay devices allow to belay the first climber, other are used to belay the second climber. Multipurpose belay devices allow to belay in both situations and to rappel.<\/p>\n

In the last 20 years belay devices have evolved immensly, passing from simple tubers, like the one on the right, to assisted-breaking\u00a0 mechanical devices. In this article we will review the main categories of devices. If you need more information about specific devices you can search our news and posts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Assisted-Breaking devices<\/a><\/h5>\n
Non-Mechanical assisted-breaking devices<\/a><\/h5>\n
Tubers & Co. \u2013 Classic Manual Belay devices<\/a><\/h5>\n<\/td>\n
\n
Guide Mode. The most versatile devices<\/a><\/h5>\n
Italian hitch<\/a><\/h5>\n
The 8 Figure<\/a><\/h5>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

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ASSISTED-BREAKING DEVICES<\/h3>\n

<\/a>Mechanically Assisted Breaking Belay Devices, such a long name, climbers often call them \u2018automatic\u2019 but that is false and misleading. NO belay device on the market is ‘automatic’. They\u00a0help to lock the rope in case of a fall, guaranteeing major security and limiting human error. That is it.<\/p>\n

Assisted-breaking devices use diverse and very simple mechanical means to bite on the rope when it is rapidly pulled, similarly to what happens with our seat-belt. They have become very popular with the wide spreading of indoor and outdoor sport climbing as they can be safer and make it easier to hold climbers taking long rests on difficult routes.<\/p>\n

The most famous\u00a0assisted-breaking devices today are the GriGri 2<\/strong> (by Petzl<\/em>), the Vergo\u00a0<\/strong>(by Trango<\/em>) and the Matik\u00a0<\/strong>(by Camp<\/em>).<\/p>\n

\n\n\n\n\n
\"Petzl<\/td>\n\"\"<\/td>\n\"\"<\/td>\n\"\"<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"Petzl<\/td>\n\"Trango<\/td>\n\"\"<\/td>\n\"\"<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
\n
Make<\/strong><\/div>\n<\/th>\n
\n
Model<\/div>\n<\/th>\n
\n
Rope Diameter(mm)<\/div>\n<\/th>\n
\n
Weight (g)<\/div>\n<\/th>\n
\n
Price (\u20ac)<\/div>\n<\/th>\n
\n
Rating<\/div>\n<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
Petzl<\/td>\nGriGri Plus<\/a><\/strong><\/td>\n8.5 – 11<\/td>\n200<\/td>\n150<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Petzl<\/td>\nGriGri 2<\/a><\/strong><\/td>\n8.9 – 11<\/td>\n185<\/td>\n65<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Wild Country<\/td>\nRevo<\/a><\/strong><\/td>\n8.5 – 11<\/td>\n245<\/td>\n130<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Camp<\/td>\nMatik<\/strong><\/a><\/td>\n8.6 – 10.2<\/td>\n276<\/td>\n199<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Trango<\/td>\nCinch<\/strong><\/td>\n9.4 – 11<\/td>\n182<\/td>\n85<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Trango<\/td>\nVergo<\/strong><\/a><\/td>\n8.9 – 10.7<\/td>\n190<\/td>\n99<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Edelrid<\/td>\nEddy<\/strong><\/td>\n9.0 – 11<\/td>\n360<\/td>\n120<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Madrock<\/td>\nLifeguard<\/strong><\/a><\/td>\n8.9 – 11<\/td>\n19<\/td>\n89<\/td>\n\u2605\u2605\u2605\u2605<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Although these devices seem to be safer than other non-mechanical devices, we\u2019ll soon see that this is not a rule.<\/p>\n

If on one hand devices such as the GriGri2<\/em> and the Cinch<\/em> can help the belayer stopping the rope in case of fall, on the other hand, their sudden locking generates a shock that is discharged to the last anchoring point, and partially to the climber. The tension provoked to the last anchoring point can easily be tolerated by new and well-fitted stainless-steel spits, but it unthinkable of using self-locking devices on old spits, multi-pitches or\u00a0alpine-style (traditional) routes.<\/p>\n

Furthermore, many climbers using assisted-breaking devices rely too much on their mechanism, not paying enough attention to basic safety guidelines. Absent-minded usage develops bad habits which become hard to eradicate and puts climbers at risk. Many belayers ignore how to properly use assisted- braking belay devices and many more, although knowing the how-to, often use them improperly. The most occurring mistake is allowing slack by pressing with the thumb on the GriGri2<\/em> lever. Have you ever done it, or seen people doing it? Do you know what happens if the climber falls when the belayer does that?<\/p>\n

It is very important to learn the proper use of each assisted-breaking belay device, and always pay attention not to fall back on bad habits. Our instructors at Climbing Sardinia teach the safest way to use these devices, but it is also possible to enrol on a course on your local climbing gym or watch the instruction videos on Youtube.<\/p>\n

These are the instruction videos released by Petzl, Trango and Edelrid.<\/strong><\/p>\n