{"id":18047,"date":"2025-01-18T19:53:03","date_gmt":"2025-01-18T18:53:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/titanium-has-arrived-in-cala-gonone\/"},"modified":"2025-02-17T00:06:42","modified_gmt":"2025-02-16T23:06:42","slug":"rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\/","title":{"rendered":"Rebolting with Titanium: Biddiriscottai"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Finally, after many discussions (and useless re-bolting with 316L steel), Titanium has arrived on the cliffs of Cala Gonone! \"laughing\"<\/strong><\/p>\n

In this case, the term cliff<\/strong> is quite appropriate, as we are talking about vertical walls by the sea. For years, we were aware of the dangerous conditions of the bolts and anchors at the Biddiriscottai<\/strong> cliff, which have been repeatedly highlighted by both us (see article<\/a>) and by Claude Remy<\/strong> and Maurizio Oviglia<\/strong> as early as 2012 (see article<\/a>). The issue is well known, and it\u2019s called pitting<\/a>. It\u2019s an oxidation process of steel triggered and accelerated by saltwater and the heat of the sun, to which these cliffs are constantly exposed.<\/p>\n

For this reason, the association Climbing Sardinia<\/strong>, in collaboration with alpine guides Louis Piguet<\/strong> and Mario Ogliengo<\/strong>, has taken action to begin re-bolting all the climbing routes on this beautiful cliff. This will obviously be a long process, due to the cost of titanium bolts and anchors. Currently, each bolt costs more than \u20ac10, while an anchor costs about \u20ac75\u2026 not to mention the pure epoxy resin used to secure the anchors and bolts.<\/p>\n

By combining the funds raised from the latest climbing courses<\/strong> and donations from members and some private individuals, Climbing Sardinia has purchased a large batch of titanium bolts and anchors from the UK manufacturer Titan Climbing<\/a><\/strong> and received a generous epoxy resin sponsorship from G&B Group. <\/a><\/strong>Another donation of equipment from Vertical Evolution<\/a><\/strong> will be used for the simpler routes in the Biddiriscottai cave.<\/p>\n

This is an initial list<\/strong> of the re-bolted routes in titanium<\/strong>. All updates are always available on our guide to Sardinia’s cliffs<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

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<\/strong><\/p>\n

Updated December 23, 2021 <\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Meteopatia <\/strong>(7c)<\/li>\n
  2. Meteopatia 2 <\/strong>(6c)<\/li>\n
  3. Thai dream<\/strong> (7b)<\/li>\n
  4. Ipse dixit<\/strong> (7a)<\/li>\n
  5. Mina vagante<\/strong> (6c+)<\/li>\n
  6. Incastro maligno<\/strong> (7b+)<\/li>\n
  7. Aberrante<\/strong> (6b+)<\/li>\n
  8. Schiavi bianchi<\/strong> (6c)<\/li>\n
  9. Vertebra<\/strong> (6c+)<\/li>\n
  10. Nelle fauci del lupo<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  11. Happy new year<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  12. Sirene al muro<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  13. SN<\/strong> (5b)<\/li>\n
  14. Lithium<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  15. Eddy<\/strong> (5b)<\/li>\n
  16. Dai Tossina!<\/strong> (5b)<\/li>\n
  17. Bucio de culo<\/strong> (5b)<\/li>\n
  18. Fuck<\/strong> (5c)<\/li>\n
  19. The Oblong box<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  20. Schiavi della pietra<\/strong> (7a)<\/li>\n
  21. La spalliera var SX<\/strong> (7a+)<\/li>\n
  22. La spalliera var DX<\/strong> (7b+)<\/li>\n
  23. C’est la vie<\/strong> (7b)<\/li>\n
  24. Il mago dormiglione<\/strong> (7a)<\/li>\n
  25. Il mago dormiglione VAR DX<\/strong> (6b+)<\/li>\n
  26. Paolino<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  27. Passo salso<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  28. Passo salso EXT<\/strong> (proj)<\/li>\n
  29. Il bimbi<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  30. Guardie e ladri<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  31. Heinz Reduced<\/strong> (5b)<\/li>\n
  32. Roccatrice <\/b>(proj)<\/li>\n
  33. Lo scivolo<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  34. Bargullich reduced<\/strong> (5c)<\/li>\n
  35. Bargullich<\/strong> (6b)<\/li>\n
  36. Ketzuya<\/strong> (7b+)<\/li>\n
  37. M’importa ‘na sega<\/strong> (7b)<\/li>\n
  38. Maledetti miserabili<\/strong> (6c)<\/li>\n
  39. La Buazza<\/strong> (7a+)<\/li>\n
  40. Viva Mexico Viva Zapata<\/strong> (7a)<\/li>\n
  41. Bushkashi<\/strong> (7b)<\/li>\n
  42. Fiore<\/strong> (6a)<\/li>\n
  43. Fiore EXT<\/strong> (6b+)<\/li>\n
  44. The hark<\/strong> (6a+)<\/li>\n
  45. La polvere del Messico<\/strong> (6c+)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

     <\/p>\n

    In addition,<\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Poseidon<\/strong> (7b+, PARTIALLY re-bolted by M. Oviglia)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

       <\/p>\n

      [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_button button_url=”https:\/\/climbingitaly.com\/sector\/scogliera-di-biddiriscottai\/” button_text=”Multipitch -Biddiriscottai” button_alignment=”center” _builder_version=”4.16″ _module_preset=”default” custom_button=”on” button_bg_color=”#e02b20″ background_layout=”dark” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_button][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.17.3″ _module_preset=”default” hover_enabled=”0″ global_colors_info=”{}” sticky_enabled=”0″]<\/p>\n

        \n
      1. La Vita Nuova<\/strong> (4 tiri, 100 m, 6a)<\/li>\n
      2. SN<\/strong> (4 tiri, 100 m, 6b)<\/li>\n
      3. Alla ricerca del punto C<\/strong> (4 tiri, 100m, 6b+)<\/li>\n
      4. Innocenti deviazioni<\/strong> (4 tiri, 90m, 6a+)<\/li>\n
      5. Oceano Mare (<\/strong>5 tiri, 150 m, 6b+)<\/li>\n
      6. Zanahoria<\/strong> (4 tiri, 110 m, 6a+) via parzialmente attrezzata, richiede l’uso di friends e cordini<\/li>\n
      7. L’alchimista<\/strong> (8 tiri, 210 m, 6c)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

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        Finally, after many discussions (and useless re-bolting with 316L steel), Titanium has arrived on the cliffs of Cala Gonone! In this case, the term cliff is quite appropriate, as we are talking about vertical walls by the sea. For years, we were aware of the dangerous conditions of the bolts and anchors at the Biddiriscottai […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12450,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"1080","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[141],"tags":[246,316,1012,1011],"class_list":["post-18047","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news-it","tag-biddiriscottai","tag-cala-gonone-en","tag-rebolting-en-2","tag-titanium"],"yoast_head":"\nRebolting with Titanium: Biddiriscottai - Climbing Sardinia<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Rebolting Biddiriscottai with titanium: safe anchors return to Cala Gonone's spectacular sea-cliff crag.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Titanium bolts have arrived to Sardinia\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rebolting Biddiriscottai with titanium: safe anchors return to Cala Gonone's spectacular sea-cliff crag.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Climbing Sardinia\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/climbing.sardinia\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-01-18T18:53:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-02-16T23:06:42+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/titanium-cala-gonone-2020-4.jpg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"ivan\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"ivan\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"4 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"ivan\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/a4642110f662de7193ca110b213f3c8b\"},\"headline\":\"Rebolting with Titanium: Biddiriscottai\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-01-18T18:53:03+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-02-16T23:06:42+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":669,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2021\\\/01\\\/titanium-cala-gonone-2020-4.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Biddiriscottai\",\"Cala Gonone\",\"rebolting\",\"titanium\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Climbing News\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/climbingsardinia.com\\\/en\\\/rebolting-with-titanium-biddiriscottai\\\/\",\"name\":\"Rebolting with Titanium: Biddiriscottai - 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