{"id":18054,"date":"2025-01-18T19:57:32","date_gmt":"2025-01-18T18:57:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/how-to-climb-on-titanium-bolted-crags\/"},"modified":"2025-01-18T19:57:33","modified_gmt":"2025-01-18T18:57:33","slug":"how-to-climb-on-titanium-bolted-crags","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/how-to-climb-on-titanium-bolted-crags\/","title":{"rendered":"How to climb on titanium-bolted crags"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”]<\/p>\n

As many of you may know, the ASD Climbing Sardinia<\/strong>, with the support of its members and alpine guides Mario Ogliengo<\/strong> and Louis Piguet<\/strong>, began an important re-bolting project in December 2020 on the Biddiriscottai<\/a><\/strong> crag, located on the coast north of Cala Gonone<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

On this article<\/a>, and on our Crag Guide<\/a>, you can see the list of re-bolted routes.<\/p>\n

The crag is located right by the sea, where salt and heat accelerate the oxidation process. For this reason, we chose to use titanium<\/strong>, due to its great resistance to corrosion. We hope that these works will allow us to climb safely for many years to come.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

However, we will need to change the way we use anchors and bolts<\/em><\/h4>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Titanium is very resistant to corrosion, but it is less so to abrasion. All climbers will need to adopt some precautions<\/strong> to protect the bolts and anchors from wear caused by rope friction<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

We will also need to avoid leaving quickdraws<\/strong> or other equipment behind. When in contact with titanium, steel and aluminum corrode much faster than usual, making removal interventions more complicated.<\/p>\n

Therefore, we have decided to summarize here some simple precautions for the optimal use of titanium re-bolted routes.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”]<\/p>\n

1 – Preserve the rappel ring<\/h3>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

If your partner wants to climb second<\/strong>, belay and add a carabiner<\/strong> at the top. This way, the rope will rub on your carabiner instead of the rappel ring.<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/sosta-titanio-moschettone-scaled.jpg” title_text=”lower-off-titanium-carabiner” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default” width=”40%” width_tablet=”” width_phone=”50%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”]<\/p>\n

<\/h3>\n

2 – Do not leave quickdraws behind<\/h3>\n

In contact with titanium, other metals rust very quickly. A quickdraw might get stuck immediately, making it impossible to remove.<\/p>\n

If you can’t reach the top of a route, leave one of the carabiners of the quickdraws<\/strong> so that the next person can remove it. Alternatively, you can pass the rope through a bolt and rappel from there. The bolts are very wide and have a round section.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”]<\/p>\n

\n

We hope all climbers will help us in safeguarding the installed gear and also protecting the surrounding environment.<\/em><\/h4>\n<\/blockquote>\n

We hope the Biddiriscottai<\/strong> crag will be visited frequently and with care. The mix of athletic routes on overhung walls, vertical slabs, chimneys, cracks, and roofs with good holds, framed by a beautiful view of the Gulf of Orosei, makes it a unique crag in Sardinia.<\/p>\n

Each route deserves more repeats, and we will be happy to replace the worn gear if the crag becomes a destination for many climbers. Even though we don’t know when the gear will need to be replaced, we have already purchased several rings to replace those that will wear out<\/strong>. <\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/anelli-titanio.jpg” alt=”spare titanium rings” title_text=”titanium rings for lower-offs” _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.5.3″ _module_preset=”default”]<\/p>\n

<\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

<\/h4>\n

These are some of the things we removed from the Biddiriscottai crag. Beware!<\/h4>\n

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As many of you may know, the ASD Climbing Sardinia, with the support of its members and alpine guides Mario Ogliengo and Louis Piguet, began an important re-bolting project in December 2020 on the Biddiriscottai crag, located on the coast north of Cala Gonone. On this article, and on our Crag Guide, you can see […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":12584,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[141],"tags":[316,1015,1014,1013,1011],"class_list":["post-18054","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-climbing-news-it","tag-cala-gonone-en","tag-climbing-on-titanium-bolts-en","tag-crags-safety","tag-rebolting-climbing-crags","tag-titanium"],"yoast_head":"\nHow to climb on titanium-bolted crags - Climbing Sardinia<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The friction of the rope can wear down the titanium in a short time. 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