{"id":1962,"date":"2016-05-06T11:56:49","date_gmt":"2016-05-06T11:56:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/topos\/?p=1962"},"modified":"2016-05-06T11:56:49","modified_gmt":"2016-05-06T11:56:49","slug":"alexander-huber-climbs-il-capitano","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/climbingsardinia.com\/en\/alexander-huber-climbs-il-capitano\/","title":{"rendered":"Alexander Huber climbs Il Capitano"},"content":{"rendered":"

Alexander Huber sends Il Capitano<\/h3>\n

German top climber Alexander Huber has sent and sent two new clean problems on a sea cliff between Cala Gonone and Baunei.<\/p>\n

The two problems were named Solemar<\/em> (8a) and Il Capitano<\/em> (8b+) and start directly from the sea, requiring a boat to host the belayer. If you think of the name Il Capitano, you may guess how important was to Huber to find a valid capitain to hold the boat still despite waves and currents!<\/p>\n

The crag was spotted by Hyuber during a boat trip to Cala Goloritze. It is a smooth overhanging cliff about 50 meters high, with a long tufa on the lower half and a polished higher section with little holds and one miraculous big jug.<\/p>\n

On his first attempt Huber climbed the problem protecting it with friends and skyhooks but was forced to move to a traverse to avoid a difficult section with no holds. This line was then named Solemar<\/em>. Watching the line he found a way to approach it and tried it again on a direct line, sending the 8b+ Il Capitano using only friends and skyhooks.<\/p>\n

After a difficult (and dynamic) start from the boat the problem follows the tufa for 20 meters, at the end of which it is possible to insert the last friend. The 4 meters above have little holds, in which Huber was able to insert 2 skyhooks but then… nothing: 2 meters of just polished limestone. You may have guessed the solution from the images: a long dyno, some 8 meters above the last friend!<\/p>\n

Needless to say, Huber sent it.<\/p>\n

I wonder now who will be the next climber to repeat it. Open challenge?<\/p>\n

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