Rock climbing in Baunei

Baunei is an area of immense wilderness, broad views, and high climbing walls. Vertiginous crags overlooking the sea and solid limestone routes, that’s the image of Baunei. You may say the same of Cala Gonone, but that’s tamed, Baunei is WILD! One of the most iconic climbs in Italy is right here, in Baunei. Ever heard or seen pictures of the rock needle of Cala Goloritzè? That is Punta Caroddi (aka “Aguglia di Goloritzè), a 160 meters pinnacle with nine climbing routes ranging from 6b to 7b+. And let’s not talk of the beautiful tiny cove below it… Cala Goloritze alone attracts hundreds of climbers each year. Climbing it is a must for anyone coming to Sardinia.  

Where can I climb in the summer?

Although most climbing sectors in Baunei are exposed to the sun all day, there are some shady crags to climb during the summer season too. The best ones are Su Telargiu Oro, Monte Scoine and Uttolo.  

What are the best winter climbing sectors in Baunei?

Some may say though that Baunei is the perfect destination for winter climbing. In effect, many crags face south and it is too hot in the summer. Winter crags are located near Pedra Longa, along the steep road that leads back to town. Among these, the best are probably Villaggio Gallico, Campo dei Miracoli and Monte Oro. But how to say… there are so many, and they all have beautiful lines and solid vertical rock.  

Where are the best multi-pitch routes in Baunei?

Anyhow, Baunei has much much more to hand. Think of the high walls of Punta Giradili, which someone calls the “Sardinian Dawn Wall” (we wish, for it’s about a half-size). Or the remote walls of Oronnoro, where a group of top-climbers lead by Pietro Dal Prà established routes that not many people have the guts to try. Before the birth of the many sport crags, Baunei was renowned among the elite of top climbers for these extreme routes. Luckily the area is now covered with easier and more accessible climbs, but the potentials for more are all around.