The Hardest problems in Sardinia

Now, many people ask us “what are the hardest climbing problems in Sardinia?” to which we tended to reply very evasively, such as in ‘it depends’

I know, it is annoying, you want a direct answer. One name, that’s it, give me that name!

…but in effect it does depend! There’s first of all the enormous gap between bouldering and rope climbing, and then, are we talking of Trad climbing, sport routes or multi-pitches? It’s so crazy that climbing has already been partitioned into different sub-categories! So to reply to all, lets make a few lists (hoping it wont be a struggle to keep update!)

If you want one and one name only, that’s Marina Superstar. It is a 30 meters long sport problem located at the north-end of the Grotta di San Giovanni, Domusnovas, on the climbing sector known as Bronx. It was bolted by Matteo Marini in 2007 and graded an incredible 9a+ / 9b. Marina Superstar is the continuation of two shorter problems: Nel Prossimo Futuro (12m, 8b+) and Marina. (20m, 8c+).

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[table caption=”The Hardest Sport Routes in Sardinia”]
Problem,Grade,Sector, First Ascent, Year
Marina Superstar, 9a+/9b, Bronx (Domusnovas), Adam Ondra, 2008
Campo con Corvi, 9a, Bronx (Domusnovas), Adam Ondra, 2008
Kubomaladia, 8c+, Millenniom (Cala Gonone), Arthur Kubista, 2007
Death Row, 8c+, Millennium (Cala Gonone), Adam Ondra, 2009
La Voce, 8c+, Ruota del Tempo (Domusnovas), Adam Ondra, 2009
Una piu del Diavolo, 8c, Quirra, Arthur Kubista, 2001
La Signora con la Falce,8c,Urania (Isili),Steve Mc Clure,2004
Oltretomba,8c,Bronx (Domusnovas),Adam Ondra,2008
Sapientino,8b+/8c,Fuili (Cala Gonone),Rolando Larcher,2005
Illy,8b+/8c,Su Telargiu ‘e Oro (Baunei),Arthur Kubista,2009
Raga,8b+,Urania (Isili),Arthur Kubista,1998
Fantasia e Verità,8b+,Urania (Isili),Arthur Kubista,1998
Anime Salve,8b+,Fuili (Cala Gonone),Giuseppe Garippa,2001
Mammuthone,8b+,Millennium (Cala Gonone),Arthur Kubista,2003
Eja,8b+,Cala Luna,Loic Fossard, 2004

[table caption=”The hardest Bolted Multi-pitches in Sardinia”]
Name,Height,Grades,Location,First Ascent,Year
Hotel Supramonte,400m,7b+ 7c+ 8b 8a+ 8b 7c 7a+ 7b+ 7b 7b 6b,Canyon Gorroppu, Pietro dal Pra, 2000
Mezzogiorno di Fuoco,270m,7a+ 8b 6c 8a+ 7c+ 7c 7a,Punta Giradili,Larcher Oviglia and Vigiani, 2006
Aria,350m,7c 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c+ 8a+ 8a+ 6c+ 7b+ 7a, Punta Plumare,Dal Pra and Nadali,2007
Oiscura,230m,7a+ 6a+ 8b 8b 6b 7b+ 7b,Punta Giradili,,
Amico Fragile, ,6b 6c 7c+/8a 7c+ 7b 6a 6b+ 6a+, Codula di Luna,Vago and Pedeferri,2006
Intelligenza Emotiva,260m,6c+ 7b 6b 6a 7b+ 7a+ 8a 6b+,Punta Giradili,Larcher,1998

In regards to the hardest boulder in Sardinia… we should wait to gather a bit more information. The Hardest boulder seems to be located in Luogosanto: Patagarroso, an 8b freed by Gabriele Moroni in 2015. View this article with a video of the Achievement!