Hi there, I’m Ivan, one of the guides for the Selvaggio Blu. I’ve led over 60 tours with clients from all over the globe, whether solo, with friends, in different sections, or exploring new variations. I’ve even rediscovered routes used by shepherds that few have walked. My deep knowledge of the area helps me tailor the journey to the needs of those I’m guiding, avoiding obstacles or extending the route to explore some hidden gems off the beaten path.

That said, I believe the Selvaggio Blu route is only one: the one originally set out by Mario Verin and Peppino Cicalò back in 1987. There are countless possible variations, but they should always be understood as alternatives.

You can download the GPX track created by Mario Verin for free from this link.

I wanted to share my knowledge to help those who wish to tackle the Selvaggio Blu on their own and experience a unique and unforgettable adventure. Even though I work as a guide, I encourage anyone capable to push beyond the known, rediscover the thrill of adventure, getting lost, finding your way, and coming up with ingenious solutions.

Assuming that anyone embarking on this adventure has the physical skills to walk on such rugged terrain for at least four consecutive days, the challenges go beyond just muscle. To complete the Selvaggio Blu Self-guided requires much more. First and foremost, organization and attention to detail. These are the key points we’ll examine in detail:

1. The Route: learn about the daily stages and difficulties of the path.
2. Booking: communicate and book your excursion with the municipality of Baunei.
3. Kit List: select the right equipment.
4. Rope Descents: understand the details and how to use the gear.
5. Clothing: choose the minimal necessary clothing, packing season-appropriate clothes that are useful in multiple situations.
6. Food: accurately calculate the amount of water and food needed for the entire journey.
7. Safety Tips

So, here are the steps to prepare for this adventure.

Selvaggio Blu Without a Guide – With or Without Logistical Support

So, can you attempt the Selvaggio Blu without ANY TYPE of support? Sort of…

There’s a big difference between doing the Selvaggio Blu without a guide, figuring out the route without getting lost, and hiking for days over rocky terrain and exposed paths with a heavy, cumbersome backpack loaded with ropes, gear, a tent, sleeping bag, clothes, and especially food and water.

You might have heard or read that the biggest challenge on the Selvaggio Blu is finding water. There are no natural water sources along the route, except for the river S’Erriu Mortu (at the start of the first day) and the Grotta dell’Acqua (on the third day). But these aren’t 100% reliable.

However, you can make a couple of short detours to buy water from the campsites at Su Porteddu (on the second day) and Ololbissi (at the end of the third day). But you’ll need a lot of water, at least 3 liters per person during the day, plus extra for cooking. If you want to conserve water, the Selvaggio Blu will turn from a trek into a true survival challenge.

IN A FUTURE ARTICLE I WILL EXPLAIN HOW TO COMPLETE THE SELVAGGIO BLU IN COMPLETE AUTONOMY. But for now, let’s concentrate on an easier version, using a logistic support.

So, unless your goal is to join the Marines, I recommend not skimping and arranging for logistical support, whether it’s a friend or one of the local companies. It’s better to lighten your load and have food and water delivered daily. Even better, arrange for two deliveries a day – one in the evening to bring you water, dinner, and gear, and one in the morning to pick up gear and trash, so you can walk light.

The main local companies offering logistical support are:

• Cooperativa Goloritzè
• Explorando Supramonte
• Tortuga

THE SELVAGGIO BLU ROUTE

Verin and Cicalò divided it into four daily stages, and this is the quickest solution. Those who have never done the Selvaggio Blu often make the mistake of underestimating it, thinking they can complete it in three days or even less based on daily mileage. Don’t make the same mistake. The route isn’t easy to follow, and even if you know it, your speed will always be quite slow.

Also, keep in mind that you might arrive late to Pedra Longa on the first day or be tired from the previous evening’s journey. Starting off “full throttle” isn’t ideal and is far from relaxing. Since this is supposed to be a vacation, an adventure to fully enjoy, I would recommend splitting the route into five days.

Unfortunately, in Supramonte, distance between two points and elevation aren’t the main factors when considering the type of terrain, the presence of climbing sections, and the difficulty in finding the right passages. Just considering these factors, the second day might seem like an easy downhill stroll. But it’s not. The descent of Sisiera and the Tenadili canyon are so challenging that even the fittest can struggle and lose hours.

Among guides, we know how long it takes to walk from one point to another. We learn this on the ground, and it’s the only data we keep in mind: time. Distance in Supramonte is secondary.

Day 5

from Bacu Padente to Sisine 7 km +820 m -1070 m

Challenges: Managing four rope descents, up to 50 meters. Via ferrata of Plumare.

Our GPX Track: The Most Updated and Reliable Guide for the Selvaggio Blu

Our GPX track is created and updated by expert guides who know the Selvaggio Blu inside and out. It’s the most crucial resource for a successful self-guided adventure.

• Expert Navigation: Avoid getting lost with precise tracks, waypoints, and detailed route information.
• Exclusive Camping Information: Includes hard-to-find official campsites, ensuring you can confidently locate designated camping spots.
• Constantly Updated: We regularly update the track for our own use, incorporating the latest trail conditions and any modifications.

Booking the Selvaggio Blu

Since 2018, the municipality of Baunei has introduced a mandatory registration with a dedicated office and a fee of €30 per person. You need to contact them to specify your chosen itinerary, desired dates, and number of participants.

Before departing, you need to send an email to selvaggioblu@turismobaunei.eu, including:

• Name, surname, phone number, and email of the contact person
• The days you plan to trek the Selvaggio Blu
• The camps where you wish to stay overnight
• Number of participants
• If applicable, which company will provide logistics

Note: The camps at Mariolu and Biriala are only bookable by groups led by Alpine Guides or Environmental Hiking Guides.

Once the municipality approves or modifies your plan, you must pay the €30 per person fee via bank transfer within a week before departure. The municipality’s confirmation email and the payment receipt will be the documents you need to show at the entrance to Goloritzè or in case of a local police check.

If you need to change the itinerary at the last moment due to bad weather or other force majeure, contact the office via email or at +39 3495462583 (Mon-Fri 10-13 and 15-16).

The our GPX track includes the official camping points selected by the Baunei local administration. There is a different track for each of the five trekking days, with waypoints indicating exactly where the camps are located at the end of each route.

If you have questions or need support regarding the trail, feel free to contact us via email. We are always available to help with any doubts or concerns. The GPX track has been created to ensure a smooth and enjoyable adventure on the Selvaggio Blu.

COMPLETE KIT LIST

The equipment list will vary depending on whether you have logistical support or not. With logistical support, you can afford to bring more items without strict weight limits. The following list is designed for those who will use this service.

ROPE ABSEILS

To complete the Selvaggio Blu without a guide and without cutting corners, you need to descend several rock faces using ropes and harnesses. The original Selvaggio Blu route includes eight rope descents, with four on the penultimate day and four on the last day.

All the anchor points were replaced in 2023 with new resin-coated stainless steel 316L anchors. Many of the anchors have also been doubled to prevent congestion.

Some of the rope descents can be avoided if you know the shepherds’ secret passages or shortcuts that bypass them. In the downloadable GPX track, you’ll find references to these alternatives.

Let’s analyze in detail the eight descents of the original Selvaggio Blu itinerary:

Day 4: from S’Arcu ‘e su Tasaru to Bacu Padente

• 20 meters – The first rappel is at the bottom of the long descent on the Su Pentrosu scree. Often, people mistakenly take the new 45-meter variant. After passing through the rock hole and down the chimney, immediately turn right and proceed along the wall. Going straight from the chimney will lead you to the 45-meter rappel.
• 20 meters – The second rappel is at the base of the Grotta Cinque Stelle. It is easy to find. If this rappel is occupied by other groups, another anchor is located about 50 meters further south.
• 25 meters – The third rappel is a rope on a juniper tree, on the summit of the spur overlooking the Grotta del Fico. This rappel can be avoided by climbing the spur and finding the old shepherds’ route on an old Iscala ‘e Fustes. This alternative is unprotected, requires proper gear, and is not recommended for novices.
• 20 meters – The fourth rappel is on the left edge of the Arco de su Feilau. Recently equipped with two separate rings. This rappel can also be avoided by traversing the narrow ledge below and descending an old log resting on the rock.

Day 5: from Bacu Padente to Sisine

• 25 meters – Immediately after the diaclase known as Sa Nurca ‘e Piddi is the first rappel of the day. Rope on a juniper tree. The rope is divided into two sections with two quick links to allow two groups to descend simultaneously.
• 45 meters – Immediately following the previous rappel. This is the longest rappel on the Selvaggio Blu. Two anchor points have been installed to allow simultaneous descent by two groups. There is an intermediate anchor halfway down the wall, allowing the use of a single 60-meter rope by splitting the descent.
• 34 meters – Right after the Plumare landslide and the Via Ferrata di Plumare. The main anchor is preceded by a fixed rope. You can attempt this rappel with a 60-meter half rope, but be aware that at the last meter the rope will end, and you’ll need to climb down or jump. Be prepared to avoid losing the rope. Also, when retrieving the rope, it often gets stuck in a small crack 15 meters up. To avoid this, give it a jerk as it’s about to come out of the anchor.
• PS: 10 meters above this anchor, there is a second anchor equipped with a rope on an oak tree (40 meters). Do not follow the fixed rope beyond this anchor as it leads nowhere.
• 20 meters – The final rappel with a view of Sisine beach, preceded by a fixed rope.
• There is another anchor (20 meters). To reach it, you need to stop 30 meters before the official anchor, just before the view of the beach, descend, and find a narrow passage through the bushes.

Clothing

The usual mistake is to bring too many things. Understand that you’ll end up smelling, so come to terms with this idea and pack as little as possible. The shirt you wear on the first day and at most two spare ones. The pants you wear and at most one spare pair, and so on. A light fleece for the evening if it’s spring, a lightweight down jacket, and a rain jacket, socks, and underwear should suffice.

Avoid unnecessary accessories that clutter your backpack and create confusion: no gloves, no beanies, no pajamas, no cotton towels, no bulky jackets.

Choose old clothes because the junipers in Supramonte love to tear new ones apart.

Jacket

The best combination is a lightweight, compact down jacket + a 2.5-layer rain jacket, which should also be very lightweight and compact.

The only downside to the down jacket is that if it gets wet, it loses its insulating properties, and the down can rot. Therefore, it should always be paired with a rain jacket.

Shoes

When it comes to footwear, it’s better to have something truly good. The minimum requirement is approach shoes, such as La Sportiva TX4, Scarpa Mescalito, Salewa Alp Trainer, or Dolomite Crodarossa. Alternatively, you could use higher and sturdier boots, but keep in mind it gets hot…

FOOD

Here, you need to make a distinction between those who need coffee and pasta and those who can do without. Giving up caffeine and hot foods simplifies everything. You can leave behind the stove, pot, detergent, and water for cooking and cleaning. In any case, it’s advisable to avoid food preserved in oil, as once opened, the oil will spread everywhere, even ahead of your movements.

Below is an example of a diet that doesn’t require a stove:

Breakfast: a pack of oats and UHT milk, enriched with fruit and nuts, and plenty of water to drink. Alternatively, just biscuits and water.

Lunch: bread (Ozieri flatbread is the best), aged cheese, dried meat (sausage, ham…), nuts, fruit, and vegetables.

Dinner: to spend an evening with friends around a small fire, you can buy pieces of meat to grill with an improvised skewer (juniper twig). On the same fire, you can heat canned food like lentils or cook potatoes and onions. And then, like for lunch, bread, cheese, fruit, and vegetables (oranges with fennel are so good).

For those who need coffee or other hot drinks in the morning, or simply prefer to cook pasta or pre-cooked foods, the options expand immensely. For breakfast, a coffee or tea, accompanied by biscuits, or bread and jam.

For lunch, you can replicate the previous list, while for dinner, you have a universe of possibilities. From pre-cooked foods of various brands to rice and pasta, and from boiled vegetables to pre-cooked legumes and cereals.

Safety Tips

• Stay on the Trail: Use our GPX track to follow the designated path. If you find yourself lost, go back to the last point where you were sure you were on the trail. Don’t take shortcuts, as you might end up in a literal thicket. Don’t pay too much attention to stone cairns; they are everywhere, even on wrong paths.
• Check the Weather Forecast: The weather can change rapidly; always check the forecast before you start and while on the trail.
• Be Careful with Limestone: When dry, limestone has good grip, but when wet, it becomes as slippery as soap. Avoid creating a layer of mud under your shoes and don’t jump on wet stones.
• Inform Someone: Let a friend or family member know your planned route and return date.
• Prepare for Emergencies: Carry a fully charged phone, spare batteries for your headlamp, and a first aid kit.