6 best alternatives to the needle in Cala Goloritze
Punta Caroddi (aka “La Guglia” or “The Needle”) in Cala Goloritze is a great climb, that is sure, it has a fantastic view, that’s true, and the beach below is a unique spot in the Mediterranean, that’s unquestionable.
Anyhow…. in our opinion, Cala Goloritze has become a little bit “too popular”. The tiny beach, once a destination for sporadic adventurers, is nowadays crowded with hundreds of tourists, walking every day up and down the steep path that was rebuilt by the local administration. What used to be an offsite and quiet rocky beach, currently looks like London’s Oxford Street on Black Friday.
In the same way, what used to be a remote climbing destination sees every morning queues (yes, queues, literally) of climbers attempting its easiest routes. The easiest one (Easy Gymnopedie, 6c max) has hundreds of repetitions per year and its most difficult passages have now become so polished it’s like climbing on glass. Many beginners ask us for information on how to access and climb in Cala Goloritze, and our advice is usually “be confident on polished 6c and be there at sunrise”.
Thus, this article wants to reestablish some balance with other equally great multipitches in the area, and to ease some pressure on poor old Cala Goloritze. What follows is a list of truly beautiful multipitches we have chosen for their spectacular view, short approach, and sturdy equipment. The maximum grade is always below 6c, making them a perfect alternative, especially for beginners.
Marinaio di Foresta
This is probably the best multipitch in the area. It is located in Pedra Longa (Baunei), only a 5-minute walk from the parking and still immersed in a wild and adventurous scenery.
How to get there: from Baunei follow directions to Pedra Longa and reach the parking at the end of the road. Descend the stairs starting in front of the restaurant and when at the bottom turn right and walk around the sea stack Pedra Longa.
DIFFICULTY: 6a+, 5c obligatory
HEIGHT: 190 m
BOLTS: fix stainless steel 12 mm Petzl
ROCK: superb! It is sometimes TOO SHARP.
EQUIPMENT: 60 meters rope, 12 quick-draws and some slings
WAY BACK: once at the top, walk a little towards the west, to find a 30-meter abseil. You will easily reach the base of the stairs.
BIG WARNING: the route goes spiralling around the sea-stack. This makes escape impossible. The only possible escape is through two abseils from the fourth anchoring point. A 20-meter abseil brings to a juniper tree, from here an additional 60-meter abseil takes to a ledge by the sea level. Walk north. It will become increasingly more difficult until a hard 5c traverse that takes back to the starting point. Anyhow, this escape is unthinkable of in case of big waves.
Cromosomi Corsari
NOTE: In October 2017 a climber was injured by a big rockfall. The rocks on top of this route may be unstable and climbers should be particularly careful.
This is the second problem that was equipped on Pedra Longa. With many exposed and athletic passages, and grades up to 6b+, Cromosomi Corsari is a harder and better than its little bro Marinaio di Foresta. Some passages require special carefulness as the rocks may move.
This route is always exposed to the sun. It is better to avoid during the summer. Many pitches can cause dangerous swinging to the second climber. Climb it only if comfortable on 6b grade.
ACCESS: from the parking lot in Pedra Longa follow a path leading south, to a narrow ledge on the south side of the sea-stack. At the end of the ledge abseil to the beach below, where the route starts.
DIFFICULTY: 5c+ – 6b – 6b+ – 4c – 5b – 6b – 6b
HEIGHT: 175 meters
ROCK: from bad and unstable rocks to superb grey slabs
EQUIPMENT: one single or 2 half ropes. 12 quick-draws and slings
BOLTS: stainless stees inox 316L. Close distanced spits
WAY BACK: One long abseil on the west side of the stack leads to the path to the bottom (restaurant side)
BIG WARNING: although difficult, escape via abseil is possible only until the third anchoring point. After this point is advisable to walk back following the return path of Marinaio di Foresta.
Dillosauro
Easy and spectacular needle climb in a very remote area. The panorama is superb and it seems really like being in the Jurassic era.
Reaching the crag takes one hour. Watch the map below for precise location
ACCESS: from Marina di Tertenia follow directions towards Porto Santoru. From the end of the asphalt keep driving 4 km on a dirt track until you find a parking spot and the road gets so bumpy only 4WD can continue. Walk 25 minutes on the same road until you notice the crag on your right’hand side. Pass a dry river bed and find a path, it leads to a wider bendy uphill path. Eventually find your way among the bushes, keeping in mind where you saw the crag.
DIFFICULTY: 6b – 6c
HEIGHT: 50 meters
ROCK: granite, superb. Avoid hot days with the humid south wind
EQUIPMENT: one single 70 m rope. 10 quick-draws
BOLTS: stainless stees inox
WAY BACK: on the same line
Guglie di Niala – Tacchi a Spillo & Far East Story
A stunning climbing route nestled in a lush, green setting. The 2 Guglie di Niala are ideal for climbing in the middle of the season but may be too cold in winter. Along with the nearby sport climbing area, they provide a refreshing alternative during the summer months.
How to get there
From Gairo Tarquisara, head towards Ussassai. After 8 km, take a right turn to the Ristorante Niala. Drive for about 3 kilometres, and you’ll clearly spot the Aguglie on your right-hand side.
DIFFICULTY: 6b max
HEIGHT: 90 m
BOLTS: fix stainless steel 12 mm Petzl
ROCK: very compact limestone
EQUIPMENT: 60 meters rope, 12 quick-draws
WAY BACK: abseil from the anchoring points
Infiniti Spazi
Another worthy multipitch on a kind of spire, Infiniti Spazi, is located in the area known as Su Sussiu, in Ulassai.
The route starts on a wide crack and goes around the spire, reaching with an exciting traverse (6a) the top of the spire. From the top it is possible to go back with a straight 60 meters abseils (fantastic to take pictures). If you climb it with one rope only you should reach the anchoring point of a neighboring single pitch (Tai Chi, trad), but it is not recommended.
ACCESS: From Piazza Barigau, in Ulassai, take the road that goes west towards the church of Santa Barbara and park after 2.8km where the road gets wider in correspondence of a dirt track going upward. Get to the dirt track and steer left after 200 meters, following a narrow path to north-west. Have a look at the map below for very precise location.
DIFFICULTY: 5c – 5b – 6a
HEIGHT: 80 meters
ROCK: Compact limestone
EQUIPMENT: 2 half ropes 60m, and 12 quickdraws
BOLTS: stainless stees inox
WAY BACK: one long abseil (60m)
Sinfonia del Mulino Bianco
This is one of the lesser-known multi-pitch routes, mainly because it requires a bit of effort to reach and might not offer the same excitement as the iconic routes at Punta Giradili or other popular spots in Sardinia. However, if you’re seeking an easy route set in a wild, untouched landscape, this could be just what you’re looking for.
ACCESS: From Baunei, head towards the Golgo plateau and follow the main road until it turns into a dirt track. Continue for 12 km until you reach the end of the road, near the beach of Cala Sisine. About 200 meters before the beach, a path leads west toward the Grotta del Miracolo. Refer to the map below for the exact location.
DIFFICULTY: 6a – 5c – 5c
HEIGHT: 80 metres
ROCK: Good limestone
EQUIPMENT: one single rope, 70m, or 2 half ropes. 10 quick-draws and slings
BOLTS: ?
WAY BACK: same line
Recent Comments