Climbing in Cala Luna
We must introduce saying that this article wasn’t intended to encourage people to rock climb in
Cala Luna but, quite the opposite, as a
warning to all those who decide to hang upside-down on its old and often
rusty bolts.Unquestionably Cala Luna is one of the best beaches in the whole Mediterranean. Its caves fascinate and impress both sea-tourists and climbers and look like a magical place. The first climber to laid hands on this rocks was
Manolo, back in the eighties. At the end of the nineties Enzo Lecis started bolting the first problems by the caves. We have more than 50 problems divided in two sectors:
Scoglio di Luna, the grey wall on top of the dock, and
Grottoni, which includes the reddish rocks where the caves are.
Timing: some problems on the north-side of
Scoglio di Luna are on shade until 3pm, while the lines of the
Grottoni go on shade after 2pm.
WATCH OUT!
Greasy: the red limestone of the caves becomes greasy and slippery during hot summer days. The hot and humid Scirocco wind (south-west) wets the rock and the sea-salt makes climbing extremely unpleasant. Summer is the worse season for climbing in Cala Luna.
Rust: many of the problems in the caves were equipped too long ago and the bolts may be rusty and ready to break apart. We discourage climbing and falling on these overhangs.
Grades: the grades in Cala Luna are not accessible to beginners, have a look at the table below and climb only what is in your comfort zone.
Scoglio di Luna
Name,Grade,Length (m),Bolted by,Year,Rebolted?
Tom Say,6b – 7a,35,E.Lecis,2004,
La Strada per Lula,6b,18,E.Pesci,1990,
Un Mare di Infiniti Ricordi,5c,20,Lecis & Marongiu,1991,
L’altro Sport,6b,20,E.Pinotti,2004,
Satori,6a+,20,E.Lecis,1991,
La Prima Goccia,5c,20,E.Pinotti,2004,
Fata Morgana,6b,20,E.Lecis,1991,
Un Onda di Troppo,6b,25,E.Pesci,?,
Fessura degli Spilli,5c,20,Manolo & Zucchini,1981,
Vamos a la Playa,6a – 5c,75,Pinotti & Prazzoli,1995,
Fucking Beach,7a,20,E.Lecis,2004,
Porno Riviste,6a+,15,E.Lecis,2004,
Come te nessuno mai,7b+,30,E.Lecis,2004,
Joey,7b,30,E.Lecis,2002,
Durga Stona,6c – 7a,55,E.Lecis,2004,
Mailee,6b,25,E.Lecis,2004,
Vampiri di Vetro,6b+,25,Manolo,1981,
Grottoni
Name,Grade,Length (m),Bolted by,Year,Rebolted?
Uno spit per ciascuno…,Proj,7,Calibani & friends,2005,
Chi tienne ‘o mare,6c,15,M.Oviglia,1997,
Pesce Abissale,6c,15,M.Oviglia,1997,
Anopfel,6c,15,?,?,
Mr. Nice,6c,15,E.Lecis,2004,
Special Case,7a,15,E.Lecis,2004,
Doctor Frank,6c+,10,E.Lecis,2004,
Strangios,7a+,10,?,?,
Rust,?,10,Avoid this line,?,
Il Quinto Passo,6c+,10,E.Lecis,2004,
Filu ‘e Ferru,6c,10,Minetto & Michelazzo,2006,
Crocchias,7b,10,Minetto & Michelazzo,2006,
Ciccioneddu,7b,10,Minetto & Michelazzo,2006,
Stamina,6c+,12,E.Lecis,2004,
La mia Vacanza,7c,12,Minetto & Michelazzo,2006,
Torch,7b+,12,Minetto & Michelazzo,2006,
La Nausea,6c+,12,M.Oviglia,1999,
Il Guru,7a,15,M.Oviglia,1999,
Gioventu Cannibale,7b+,15,S.Sarti,1999,
Eja,8b+,30,P.Pellet & C.,2004,
Aube,7c+,15,M.Merler,1997,
Esti unu pakiderma,7b+,15,M.Merler & E.Lecis,1997,
I Ronfioni,7c+,15,M.Merler & E.Lecis, 1997,
Araj,7a+/b,20,M.Merler & E.Lecis, 1997,
El Gomone,8b,25,Andrada & Blanco,2002,
Progetto Lynn Hill,8a+/b,20,Lynn Hill,1999,
La Mucca Assassina,7c,20,E.Lecis,1999,
Cala Luna,7b,15,S.Sarti,1997,
Cala Luca,6c,22,Patrick Raspo,2009,
Didi e Dada,6b,22,Patrick Raspo,2009,
Sexy Bomb,7a,15,E.Lecis,2001,
Power Chicken,7c,15,E.Lecis,2001,
Bellas Mariposas,7c+,15,M.Merler & E.Lecis,1997,
Laura,?,20,?,?,2009,
Figa Velenosa,7a+,20,S.Sarti & E.Lecis,1999,
Baby Pipistrello,6a+,17,S.Sarti & E.Lecis,1999,
Puta Vida,7a+,15,E.Lecis,2001,
Telenovelas,7c,15,E.Lecis,2002,
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